Iceland Travel Guide and Top 20 Places
The Land of FIRE and ICE
One of my favorite countries for photography is definitely Iceland, the land of fire and ice. This island nation packs so many interesting landscapes into such a small area; Iceland is 39,682 sq miles in size, or roughly the same size as the US state of Kentucky. Iceland is also conveniently located between North America and Europe so it is a 7 hour or less flight from many US hubs and can be a great stopover from the US to Europe.
This was my second time visiting Iceland and it certainly won’t be my last. Hopefully you get the chance to visit Iceland someday too and this guide can be useful to you as you plan your trip.
Below is a bit more about my most recent trip, as well as must see places, a map, and suggested itineraries.
My Latest Trip to Iceland
My most recent trip to Iceland took place from June 20-28, 2021 which was an amazing time of year to be in Iceland. During this time we got both the midnight sun as well as the lupines being in full bloom. With maximum daylight hours and a week in the country, we set out to see as much of Iceland as we possibly could in one week. Priya (@thewildindiangirl) and I rented a van and drove about 1550 miles around the entire ring road.
This was our route:
If you look closely, you might notice a few things that don’t make the most logistical sense. That is because the first day was cloudy and rainy so we just drove to waterfalls on the way to Vik and back while waiting for better weather for the volcano. Also our trip was supposed to loop around the Snæfellsnes Peninsula to Kirkjufellfoss and then up to Akureyri but due to a medical emergency, we backtracked to the nearest hospital open at 2am, in Akranes.
Rental Van
We decided to rent a van for this trip to Iceland since we planned to sleep during the days and explore at night during the midnight sun. After comparing many different companies and prices we decided to go with a 4x4 van from Lava Car Rental. We booked the van through https://www.northbound.is/car-rental-iceland which saved us quite a bit of money.
The van honestly wasn’t very impressive (the fridge didn’t work, there were no curtains, and it was poorly built/organized.
If you’re looking to rent a van in Iceland I would suggest just comparing the various brands to find what works best for you. Here are some companies to look at:
https://www.northbound.is/car-rental-iceland
https://www.campervanreykjavik.com
Personally, unless you really like the van lifestyle, plan on sleeping during the day like we did, or want the flexibility of not booking hotels ahead of time, I would suggest just renting a car and booking hotels.
For car rentals, I suggest just looking on Kayak: https://www.kayak.com/cars
And for hotels, I prefer Booking: https://www.booking.com/
4x4?
If you do decide to rent a van, then the biggest decision with that is probably whether or not to get a 4x4 or just a 2 wheel drive van. If you are planning on a short trip, then I probably wouldn’t bother with a 4x4 since there is plenty to see without it. But if you have more time and want to see places like: Fjaðrárgljúfur, Háifoss, Landmannalaugar, Kerlingarfjöll, and Hveravellir blue geothermal pool, then getting a 4x4 could be worth the extra cost.
Cost
One of the most asked questions of any trip I do is “How much did it cost?”
So here is a breakdown of our expenses for our 7 night, 8 day trip to Iceland:
FLIGHT: $650 each (we had free checked bags on Delta)
VAN RENTAL: $1500 (We got a 3 person 4x4 van)
GAS: $400 (Gas in Iceland was about $7.40 per gallon. We drove about 1550 miles and our VW Transporter 4x4 diesel van got great mileage)
FOOD: I’m not exactly sure what we spent as a total here. We had planned to cook more but with the fridge not working, we ended up eating out more. Maybe $600 (groceries and eating out).
COVID TESTS: $60 each before leaving Iceland
HOTELS: $129 and $143 (This wasn’t planned since we had a camper van, but we ended up getting a hotel after that medical emergency and again the night before we left Iceland)
CAMPGROUNDS: $135 (We stayed 5 nights in campgrounds around Iceland which were around $27 a night)
ESTIMATED TOTAL for the 2 of us: $4326 ($2,163 each)
Covid
I have no idea what the covid situation will be like when this blog gets read so I can just report what it was like when I was there. Make sure to do your own research before going.
When I went, we had to show our vaccination cards at check in and at arrival in Iceland. Then we took a covid test directly outside the airport. We were then required to self quarantine until the results of that test came in, which took about 5 hours. We just picked up the van and went to sleep in it.
In order to return to the US, we had to take a covid test within 3 days of departure. Those results came in quite quick as well, taking about 6 hours.
This was the site to register before entering or departing Iceland: https://travel.covid.is
Top 20 Places to Visit in Iceland
These are my top 20 favorite places in Iceland. They are ranked based on the overall experience (beauty, uniqueness, photo opportunities, etc.)
This is just my personal opinion :)
20. Kirkjufellsfoss
This beautiful waterfall on the Snæfellsnes Peninsula is just a very short walk from the parking lot, and edge of the main road. So it is not out of the way at all if you’re going around the Peninsula. It is a smaller waterfall so the main draw here is definitely the unique Kirkjufell Mountain behind it. This waterfall works great as a long exposure and sunset location.
19. Strokkur
Like a mini Yellowstone, this is a unique geothermal area. It has a geyser here that goes off regularly, every 10 minutes or so. There are also several uniquely colored pools. The area isn’t that big so it’s worth a stop but won’t take a long time to see everything. It is all a short walk from the parking area.
18. Hraunfossar
This waterfall stands out from the others on this list with its many cascades and bright blue waters. There are several viewing platforms a short walk from the parking area. The second photo is from the closest viewing platform to the parking area. This waterfall definitely works best as a long exposure to get those smooth lines of water.
17. Seljavallalaug Swimming Pool
The first hike on my list, this spot requires a 1.2 mile roundtrip walk to reach it. It can get quite busy so plan to go early in the day to avoid people, which always makes hot spring experiences better. It does have a bit of a slimy feel to it and can have trash, depending on how previous visitors leave it.
16. Dettifoss
This waterfall is a ways out there, in the northeast corner of Iceland. It requires a 2.2 mile roundtrip hike to visit this falls as well as nearby Selfoss. Photography can be a little tricky here, especially if the lower viewpoints are closed like they were when I was there. Regardless though, standing and feeling the power of the second most powerful waterfall in Europe is an amazing experience. There are two sides to visit at this waterfall, so it’s important to mention that these images are from the west side which is the more popular side.
Note that this spot is in a National Park and there are signs prohibiting the use of drones. Also to note, is that the bathrooms at the parking lot were excellent for such a remote place.
15. Vík í Mýrdal Church
It’s a classic photography spot in the town of Vik. It’s right off the main road and a drive up spot so it’s worth the quick detour. These images were taken a little up the dirt road from the main parking area by the church. You’ll need to go early or late to get photos like these without cars in the parking lot.
14. Gullfoss
One of the main stops on a tour of the Golden Circle in Iceland. This waterfall is similar to Dettifoss (tough to photograph but incredible to experience). It is just a short walk from the parking area to viewpoints of the falls. Also important to note here is that drones are not allowed.
13. Fjaðrárgljúfur Canyon
It is a 2 mile drive down a dirt road to get here. There are signs at the beginning of the road saying it is only for 4x4 vehicles so proceed with caution. This is a unique canyon and honestly would have been higher on my list years ago when you were more free to explore. But these days, any spots right on the edge for more unique photos, are roped off and you are no longer allowed to walk down into the canyon. You can drone here however. The official sign specifically says you can.
12. Reynisfjara Beach
This a popular spot near Vik, so plan accordingly to avoid crowds. It is just a short walk on the beach to this unique area. Just be careful of the tides and watch the ocean carefully. The spot in the second photo is around the corner from the first photo. And as you can see the waves are too high in the first photo to visit that spot. Check tide charts and go during a lower tide.
11. Hengifoss
This is a unique waterfall in east Iceland. It is a 2.9 mile roundtrip uphill hike to get up to the base of the falls. Personally I like the drone photos from here best.
10. Diamond Beach
Just across the road from the popular spot, Jökulsárlón Glacier Lagoon, lies this unique black sand beach. It is such a strange experience walking down this beach next to large chunks of ice. There really isn’t much to the place, what you see in that first photo is basically it, but the experience is interesting enough that I put it this high on my list.
9. Goðafoss
This beautiful waterfall in the north of Iceland is probably the biggest draw for visiting that area. It is right off the main road and has 2 different viewpoints, one on each side of the river. The first photo is from the east side of the river and the second photo is from the west side. I like the east side best as it looks down on the falls a bit more but it is worth checking out both sides since each viewpoint is just a short walk from the parking lots. No drones here either.
8. Jökulsárlón
This is certainly a popular area but the views are right on the edge of the water so your views won’t be impacted too much by crowds. The views are also right by the parking lot so it’s worth a stop even if you don’t have much time. You can also walk up the little hill by the parking lot for a view over the whole lagoon. No drones here as well.
7. Seljalandsfoss
Less than 2 hours from Reykjavik, this popular waterfall is a must see on any trip along the south coast of Iceland. I would recommend going at odd hours to avoid crowds, this spot does get quite busy with tour buses and such. You can also go at sunset to get the light coming through the falls as you stand behind the falls. It is certainly a unique experience to be able to go behind a waterfall like this. While here, be sure to check out nearby Gljufrabui, another unique waterfall.
6. Stokksnes
This is such a weird and surreal place that is definitely worth the stop and admission price. You have to pay a fee at the self serve kiosk in order to get a ticket and open the gate. It was around $7 per person, although it just takes 1 ticket to open the gate, so a bit of an honors system there. Once through the gate, you drive a few minutes down the road to parking areas to access the unique black sand beach. You can walk through the mounds as you get various compositions with Vestrahorn Mountain in the background. This is an excellent spot for photography.
5. Fjallsárlón
This glacier lagoon is just a less than 10 minute drive down the road from the more popular Jökulsárlón Glacier Lagoon so it is definitely worth visiting as well. And if you’re coming from Reykjavik, you’ll pass right by it. I enjoyed this place for the tranquility and sheer size of the glacier. You do have to walk about 10-15 minutes from the parking area to get these views but it is worth it as you stand by the waters edge looking out towards this massive glacier. Note that there are no drones allowed here. The first image was taken on a 16-35 mm lens and the second image was on a 70-200mm lens.
4. Glymur
The longest hike on my list, this waterfall requires a 4.3 mile roundtrip hike with 1302 feet of gain to reach the end of the canyon. This is for the full loop though so it could be made shorter by just going out and back up the east side of the river. This is the second tallest waterfall in all of Iceland so it is definitely a sight to see.
3. Háifoss
This waterfall in the Golden Circle feels a bit off the beaten path. You have to travel 4.7 miles down a bumpy dirt road to get to the parking area. From the parking area it is a short, maybe 3 minute walk, to the first views of the falls. You can keep walking along the ridge to get different/better views of the various waterfalls so I would definitely recommend allowing extra time for exploring a little bit. If you are feeling extra ambitious you can even hike down to the base of the falls.
2. Skógafoss
This is probably the most famous waterfall in Iceland, and for good reason. It is such an amazing experience being able to walk right up to such a powerful force of nature. The parking area is right by the waterfall so it takes minimal effort to reach it. There is a longer trail up the right side to the top but honestly those views aren’t really worth it. I prefer getting low to the rocks and shooting with a fast shutter speed to freeze the motion of the falls behind my subject. Also note, that there are no drones allowed here.
Fagradalsfjall Volcano
This erupting volcano (June 2021), had to be number 1 on my list, simply for how unique it was. I may never get a chance to see an erupting volcano like this again. The viewpoints seemed to change daily and kept getting pushed further and further back as the lava spread so I have no idea what current conditions are like. When I went, we had a nice viewpoint from up on a ridge (after a 2 mile uphill hike). But the best views were definitely with my drone. It was also probably the riskiest drone flight I’ve ever done because of the high winds so fly with caution.
Extra Bonus Spot
(Maybe the best of them all)
Brauð & Co.
This may be the best cinnamon roll I’ve ever had. It was crisp on the outside and soft on the inside. It was sweet but not too sweet. I would highly recommend trying one for yourself. I went to the one in downtown Reykjavík, but there are several around the city.
Places missing from my list
Lots of Hot Springs/Pools
There are so many hot springs and various pools in Iceland but only one on my list… why is that? Well, I just haven’t visited many hot springs yet so I didn’t want to include any places I hadn’t been yet on my list. Here are a few I’d recommend looking into if you’re going to Iceland though:
Sky Lagoon, Blue Lagoon, Mývatn Nature Baths, Vök Baths, and Geosea - Geothermal Sea Baths.
The Highlands
Again, this is a place I have yet to visit myself so I can’t really write on it or show pictures of it, or make recommendations I’m confident in. That being said, if you have a 4x4 and are looking to venture into the Highlands, I’d suggest looking into: Landmannalaugar and the hike to Bláhnjúkur. Also look into Kerlingarfjöll and Hveravellir blue geothermal pool.
More Food Places
I only included the one food spot, as that is the one that stood out to me the most. But here are some additional food options in certain towns:
Reykjavík: 101 Reykjavik Street Food, Svarta Kaffid, BioBorgari, Frederiksen Ale House, The Coocoo's Nest, Lamb street food, Bastard Brew & Food, Café Loki, Sandholt, Café Babalú, Lebowski Bar, KRÖST, Reykjavík Chips
Selfoss area: Kaffi Krús, GK Bakarí, Hofland Eatery, Ölverk Pizza & Brewery
Vík: The Soup Company, Skool Beans, Smiðjan Brugghús
Höfn: Hafnarbúðin, Úps, Ishusid Pizzeria Restaurant, Pakkhús Restaurant
Egilsstaðir: Askur Pizzeria, Móðir Jörð - Vallanes Organic farm, Klausturkaffi
Akureyri: Moe’s Food Truck, Mulaberg Bistro & Bar, Lasagna and More Ehf, Centrum Kitchen & Bar, Salatsjoppan
ICELAND MAP
All of the above mentioned spots, as well as a few others, can be found on my public Iceland map HERE.
Click the map to see all the locations.
Tips for visiting Iceland
Weather: Plan to go to Iceland prepared for any type of weather. And expect the weather to change frequently. There were some days I would be outside in shorts and a t-shirt, hop in the car and drive a few hours and then found myself putting on a winter coat. When planing what to pack for how cold the forecast is, don’t forget to factor in the wind. The wind in Iceland can be brutal and make days feel much colder than they are.
What to pack: With this volatile weather in mind, The main thing with packing for Iceland is bringing lots of layers. You want to be prepared for anything. I’d also make sure to pack a good rain jacket, as Iceland can be quite rainy anytime of year.
This is the rain jacket I use: https://bit.ly/2WFIsjE
Make sure to also bring a good pair of hiking boots, the trails can get quite dirty/wet/rocky. It is worth the investment.
Pack some sort of a med kit. Accidents happen and you might be out in the middle of nowhere. Also, places that sell bandaids and such might be closed. Pharmacies in Iceland have much more restricted hours and many products are only found there and not in grocery stores like in the US.
Date: Choose your date of travel to Iceland carefully based on what you want your experience to be like. With Iceland’s far north location, the weather and daylight hours vary drastically throughout the year. Check things like the average weather and the hours of daylight at the time of year you might want to go.
Business Hours: Don’t necessarily trust the hours of businesses listed on Google or other sites. Especially in smaller towns in Iceland, we found that Google would say a place was open when it really wasn’t. If you have service, it may be worth calling ahead to a place before you make a stop or plan around eating at a certain restaurant.
Gas Station Food: One thing to keep in mind is that many gas stations have food as well, and it can be quite decent. The gas station ice-cream is also really good.
Bathrooms: I was quite impressed with how nice bathrooms were in general in Iceland. I was especially impressed with the ones at trailheads and campgrounds. In the US, I’ll often stop at a gas station on the way to a trailhead to avoid using that restroom but that isn’t something I’d feel the need to do in Iceland.
Speed Cameras: Just be aware that these do exist near many towns in Iceland. I believe they are always signed beforehand but just be careful when approaching towns.
Suggested Itineraries
These are just suggestions, so be sure to do your own research about specific spots before going, and decide what trip is best for you.
Since most flights from the US arrive in the morning and depart in the morning, I’m going to use that flight schedule for these itineraries so the 3 night trip is actually 72 hours in Iceland and the 7 night trip is actually 168 hours in Iceland.
Note that these itineraries are with a rental car and staying in hotels, since that is my preference and what most people do. Also, these itineraries exclude the volcano since I’m not sure what the status of that will be in the future. Try to add it in at the start or end of your trip if it is still going off.
3 Night Trip
Day 1:
Arrive at Keflavík Airport
Pick up your rental car.
Head east along the ring road and drive about 1hr 20min to Selfoss.
Get snacks for the roadtrip at the Bonus grocery store here and have lunch at Kaffi Krús. And/or stop for coffee and pastries at GK Bakarí.
From Selfoss you’ll spend the rest of the day driving 1hr 40min to Vik, making stops at any or all of these places: Seljalandsfoss, Gljufrabui, Seljavallalaug Swimming Pool, Skógafoss, Kvernufoss, Dyrhólaey Viewpoint, and Reynisfjara Beach.
Have dinner at Smiðjan Brugghús in Vik.
Stay the night in Vik.
Day 2:
You’ll spend this day heading further east on the ring road, going as far as Jökulsárlón. This is an out and back drive from Vik so you can stop at these places either on the way there or on the way back: Vik i Myrdal Church, Fjallsárlón, Diamond Beach, and Svartifoss.
If you’re feeling extra ambitious, you can drive an hour further and visit Hofn and Stokksnes as well.
Have lunch either at Nailed It Fish and Chips at Fjallsárlón or at Hafnarbúðin in Hofn.
Have dinner back in Vik at The Soup Company.
Stay the night in Vik.
Day 3: Head west from Vik, stopping at any of the spots you didn’t have time for on day 1. This might take most of the day as it is a 2hr 30min drive to Reykjavik, depending on how many spots you stop at.
If you got to all the spots day 1 and have extra time, consider making the 1hr 15min detour up to Strokkur and Gullfoss on your drive to Reykjavik.
Have dinner in Reykjavik at one of the many restaurants on my map above.
Walk around and explore the city.
And stay the night in Reykjavik.
Day 4:
You’ll be conveniently close to the airport staying in Reykjavik so that will give you more time in the morning before you leave. Be sure to make time to get a cinnamon roll at Brauð & Co. before you leave though.
Head to the rental car place, and then depart Iceland.
7 Night Trip
Day 1
Land in Iceland and pick up your rental car.
Head straight to the Blue Lagoon for a relaxing start to your trip.
Get lunch in Reykjavik as you pass through and spend the afternoon visiting Strokkur and Gullfoss.
Get dinner at Kaffi Krús.
Stay the night in Selfoss.
Day 2
Start the day in Selfoss by getting coffee and pastries from GK Bakari. Then from Selfoss you’ll spend the day driving 1hr 40min to Vik, making stops at any or all of these places along the way: Seljalandsfoss, Gljufrabui, Seljavallalaug Swimming Pool, Skógafoss, Kvernufoss, Dyrhólaey Viewpoint, and Reynisfjara Beach.
Have dinner at Smiðjan Brugghús in Vik.
Stay the night in Vik.
Day 3
You’ll spend this day making the 3hr 16min drive from Vik to Höfn stopping at these places on the way: Vik i Myrdal Church, Svartifoss, Fjallsárlón, and Diamond Beach.
Have dinner at either Hafnarbúðin, Úps, Ishusid Pizzeria, or Pakkhús in Höfn.
Stay the night in Höfn.
Day 4
Make the 2hr 40min drive from Höfn to Egilsstaðir stopping at Stokksnes, Hvalnes Lighthouse, and Hengifoss on the way.
Consider a soak in the Vök Baths.
Have dinner at Askur Pizzeria.
Stay the night in Egilsstaðir.
Day 5
Drive from Egilsstaðir to Akureyri making stops at Dettifoss and Goðafoss on the way. Optional stops include the Mývatn Nature Baths, the town of Húsavík, and Geosea.
Walk around the downtown area of Akureyri and have dinner at Mulaberg Bistro & Bar or one of the other spots on my map.
Stay the night in Akureyri.
Day 6
This day is a bit of a boring drive day as you make your way across northern Iceland.
Stop at Kirjufellsfoss, Búðakirkja, and Gatklettur on your way to Arnarstapi.
Stay the night in Arnarstapi.
Day 7
Make the drive from Arnarstapi to Reykjavík with a stop at Glymur Waterfall on the way.
Optionally you can add 1hr 10min to your drive and swing by Hraunfossar.
Spend the afternoon walking around Reykjavík and exploring the city.
Have dinner at one of the many restaurants on my map.
Stay the night in Reykjavík.
Day 8
You’ll be conveniently close to the airport staying in Reykjavík so that will give you more time in the morning before you leave. Be sure to make time to get a cinnamon roll at Brauð & Co. before you leave though.
Head to the rental car place, and then depart Iceland.
Leave Iceland.
Thanks for stopping by my blog post and having a look over it. Hopefully it proves helpful as you plan your own trip to Iceland.
Feel free to drop any questions in the comments below if there is something I didn’t cover that you’re curious about.